I had wanted to go to Willowbrook Wildlife Reserve, just outside of Christchurch, but hadn't quite made it, so upon our return from Dunedin and the Catlins, I made a point of hooking up with one of the tourist vans that regularly drive out there. It was well worth the effort. An outdoor nature part focused on conservation and of observing animals in their natural environment, Willowbank is unique in that you enter the "cages" (which are just various fenced off areas of native bush connected by a walking trail and wooden gates), rather than just seeing animals locked up in a zoo. I really loved this place, and spent a few hours there. "The New Zealand Experience" section features native animals such as eels, trout, tuatara, opossum, ferret, blue duck, many species of birds, and of course, the Kiwi. They also have an "Exotic Wildlife" area with llamas, emus, wallaby and other more unusual animals. And their "Farmyard" features sheep and goats, horses, chickens, cows -- and the rare Kune Kune pig. They're involved in conservation efforts for some of their residents, including the Kiwi, the Kune Kune pig, and the Blue Duck.

Er no, embarrassing as it is, I didn't actually see any Kiwis here (though of course everyone else in the van saw several of them), partly because I was running out of time near the end, and partly because I had no idea at that point what I was looking for. I entered the Kiwi House thinking, "man, this place is huge! How on earth am I supposed to pick out a couple of tiny birds in this place?" Which makes me laugh now, because I did see one in Rotorua, and they are anything but "tiny birds." I imagine that while I was straining to try to see one in a tree or something (they're nocturnal, so the Kiwi House is kept dark to fool them into thinking it's nighttime), there were probably two or three of them right in front of me, scuffling around and wondering what I was up to.

About a week and a half later, after my Auckland adventure and Kiwi Experience bus trip, I came back to Christchurch for the Canterbury Crusaders match against Auckland (for the Ranfurly Shield). I was really excited about this, since I'm a big rugby fan and up until then, had only been able to watch games on TV -- oh, and a few "sub amateur" things in Boston, where you have to sit well up in the stands so as not to get whacked in the head with a stray ball.

After a great feed of authentic Kiwi fish & chips, we drove to Jade Stadium. It had been a dream of mine to see the Crusaders play in person. Of course, it would have been a good deal nicer if they actually won. Compared to some of their incredible matches I had seen back in the states on TV, it seemed to be a fairly lackluster game, probably due in part to many of their finest players being in Australia for the World Cup. Well, you'd have to be a rugby fan and be somewhat familiar with New Zealand society and South vs. North (and especially Auckland) "relations" to truly appreciate this, but as a man behind me succinctly put it as full time was called, "Anyone but Auckland!"

There were a few young (and pissed*) guys from Auckland sitting in front of us. Every time Auckland would reclaim the ball or score, they'd turn around to face the rest of us (they were in the front row) and yell and raise their fists. At half, Auckland was already leading, and we went to get a few beers. I saw them, and they said to us, "Oh sorry, we just got here -- what's the score?" Lizi thought it was funny, and of course it was, but I had just about enough of them by that point, and found myself responding with a very American sounding, "Oh, F*** OFF!!" Now, whether it was what I said, the accent I delivered it in, or both, they all just stood there gaping with eyes like giant saucers. Lizi burst out laughing, and this would become a favorite story of hers for that night's parties.

I'll also mention a wonderful show we saw at the Court Theatre, "Fever! A Tribute to Miss Peggy Lee." An intimate portrayal of her life in words and song, it was written and performed (beautifully) by Wellington singer/actor Sarah Lineham.

* drunk, in Kiwispeak

Willowbank Wildlife Reserve, Christchurch

Willowbank

Wait a minute... where are we again??

Willowbank, and a strange looking chook

Peacock at Willowbank

Willowbank

Model of early settlement, Willowbank Wildlife Reserve